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I was wondering what people's experiences were with buying used
cars from private sellers. We are looking at a Dodge truck that
the seller is asking over Kelley Blue Book for. Do used cars
usually go for over the recommended price? It has all the bells
and whistles and the engine is good, only minor body damage. I
thought maybe with high gas prices, bad economy and not alot of
interest in this particular model would make it more likely that
it would be UNDER blue book price. Any wisdom out there?
Thanks
Confused car buyer
Sounds like this car, with body damage, depending on the extent of it would be in either fair or poor condition, which reduces it's value. Check kbb.com yourself and insist on paying no more.
Sellers often price their cars high and expect to be talked down. Its a silly game - but if you show them how you arrived at the figure you are willing to offer, they really should accept it. Danville Mom
A few months ago I listed and sold my 1996 sedan for for about 20% over blue book value (which was $600 extra or so). I thought it was worth more because it had very low mileage (60k) and few problems for a nine year old car, and the buyer apparently agreed. The blue book value, in my estimation, undervalued the low mileage, but such questions of value are inherently subjective. Ideally you could compare that car to several other identical used cars and choose the best price (like you can do with new cars), but that's usually not possible because rarely do two used cars have identical condition, color, mileage, etc. So you have to decide whether it's really worth the extra $$$ or not. Anon.
1. Look at the kelly book price for the exact vehicle you are considering (including extras like CD) and the criteria for excellent, fair and good, so that you can see the price range the truck is likely to fall into. Also, it will help both you and the seller understand why a particular price is reasonable. Seemingly small things in themselves, or in combination can move an item from the high end of a category, to the lower end, or even into a lower category, depending on the type, degree etc of a problem. (An absolutely pristine truck with no mechanical or cosmetic problems and a paper trail of upkeep and repair, for example, MIGHT hold higher value than the same car with small but multiple dings, or slight but repetitive mechanical problems, depending upon the criteria and how the parties interpret it.)
2. Look in the newspaper classifieds and on Craig's list to see what comparable trucks are selling for. It ! may give you an idea of what the market is, how many are on the block, and even how well they tend to hold their value over time. You might even find a truck you like better at a more acceptable price.
3. There's a web-site that apparently gives you the history of the particular truck you are looking at. I found out about this after i bought my car, so i've not used it. I was told it has info like whether the vehicle has been in an accident. But again I have no first-hand info about it.
When I was buying my car, i also:
--Took it for a test drive
--Had my mechanic look the car over and tell me (in my case in front of the seller) how it was overall, and what expenses he foresaw in the near future.
(I had also asked beforehand how he would rate the make and model, year of car, and what price range I should expect to pay.) As a result, i knew the car was basically sound and both the seller and i adjusted the price down based on some of the cost of the work it would immediately require.
--The seller had answered all my questions, shown me repair and upkeep receipts
--I spoke to the seller's mecanic and asked what problems the car had had, and what to expect
Then I decided the top and bottom amounts I was willing to spend in general; and for the car I bought in particular. And how I wanted to go about negotiating for it. Since I am most comfortable with ''transparent bargaining'' (and luckily had a seller open to it), I then put all my cards on the table and offered a lower figure than the asking price, giving my reasons for everything that went into arriving at the price. She did the same, and we ultimately arrived at a price which, to not perfect for either, felt both fair and acceptable to both.
I used to open with the single price i thought was fair. But then there is no room for negotiation. So now I tend to start at the top of my range, give enough support for it, and then come down if the other side either offers a compelling counter- argument, or if I feel that is the Only price the buyer will accept and I am willing to pay it without feeling screwed. for my part, i find that transparency helps me figure out every step along the way and take the other side with me -- or give them a way to offer a different view.it has, in my experience allowed all partieies to share facts and draw conclusions based on them. I personally also find that i feel better at the end of the process, and often the other side does too. In my case, the seller even caught a mistake in the math and insisted that I should pay lower number it should have been.
But, there are many other people who just as strongly feel that holding their cards closer to their vest is the best path -- ''Just offer and walk away if you don't like what you hear'' is their belief. They might for example say, how about $x instead? Or what's the best price you can give me? is that the best you can do for me? what will it take to close this deal? -- One man says he can't imagine giving the other side information they can argue with or throw back in his face.
(Tho the results might have been quite similar in my case, i think it unlikely that the seller would have corrected a mistake in my favor with the non-transparent style. tho the chances are this happening are small under any system. i was very lucky.) I have no idea about how factors like gas prices, miles per gallon and other considerations you mentioned factor in a sale. I suggest you continue to see if there is a source of such info - for example a reference librarian who might have the answer or tell you where to look.In the transparent style, you can throw it on the table for the other side to consider -- after you have decided yourself how much weight you think the factor deserves. The negotiator who holds cards closer to the vest may also take this into consideration and adjust along the way as to whether to let it go in the course of negotiating.
Other lessons I learned were: If you start too low, the negotiations may never get off the ground -- though you might be able to rectify it by coming up quickly to a more reasonable range based on what you hear; that you can always go up, but usually not come down from a price you offer; and it's not over til the fat person sings. (Just because the seller says he wants $x doesn't mean they won't settle for $y. And if they don't, you can go back up to $x if you want.)
That's been my experience. Good luck in whatever you decide to do. nans
We are looking for a used car and are exploring various avenues. I have heard that one can get a great deal using EBay Motors, since cars are often cheaper in other parts of the country (granted sometimes for good reason, like corrosion). I would like to hear comments from people who have used EBay Motors, particularly to buy a car from someplace distant, about their experiences and whether they thought they made out better than if they had bought locally. Erin
The car was in the midwest, so shipping was required as well (which I had figured into my budget). A family member was out of work and wanting to visit; since he was already in the midwest we agreed to pay his plane ticket home and all expenses, so he drove the car out and we had the additional pleasure of his visit. I think eBay Motors is a great option and definitely worth considering if you already know your specs. You will have to pay California tax on the car, however, when you register it.
I hope this is helpful. I love my car and have never had a problem with it. I'll check out eBay for the next one as well. Please feel free to email me with any specific questions.
To Infiniti and beyond.... cwilson
Can anyone recommend someone who comes and looks over a used car (mechanically) before we buy it? How do you know if the car you've picked out is a lemon? This would be for a car that we're seriously thinking of buying, either from a dealer or individual. Thanks, Adrienne
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I checked the most recent archives don't have the answer to my exact question.We are looking to buy a used car (a recent subaru outback) and would like suggestions on where to look - in addition to here (marketplace), craigslist and the chronicle classifieds (oh, and the place near the berkeley bowl). We do not want to buy from a dealer. Any used car brokers people can recommend? Other classified listings - either on-line or otherwise? Thanks. schradie
I am due to have my first child beginning of March and would like to buy a used 'trustworthy' car for under 4000 dollars. I would preferably like a 4 door car with trunk space for a stroller. Does anyone know of a good place to buy or of any private sales. Thanks louise
Hi. We are looking for a good used minivan (preferably Toyota, Mazda or Nissan). Does anyone know a good used car dealar for those cars? We like to buy 1998 or newer models. Any recommendations are very welcome. Thank you. rie
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I am in the market to buy a used car for my daughter. I intend to buy a car from a private party, so will need to have a mechanic check it bumper to bumper before I buy. Can anyone recommend a car mechanic to inspect a used car for me? I expect to purchase a foreign make car, such as a Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Mitsubishi or VW. Thanks! Lori
Last updated: Oct 21, 2007
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