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Travel tips for Italy with a 13 year old?

April 2007

We'll be visiting Rome, Venice and the Pompeii/Amalfi area briefly at the end of June. Any suggestions for activities that would appeal to a 13-year-old who doesn't have a high tolerance for museums/galleries? Lodging suggestions also welcome... deb


First, set the mood. Rent movies about Italy before you go that would interest yr teen--there are lists on the web. Buy a good guide book, Rick Steve’s Italy 2007 has itineraries that can be useful concise info at yr fingertips—his hotel and restaurant suggestions have proved to be good. (Get The Smiles of Rome by Susan Cahill for yrself).

Second, be sure they have their own camera, particularly if it’s one they like and is small and easily placed in a pocket.

Third, look around for a really good map that is easy to read, especially ones that are more 3-D or that call out the sites for the cities you will visit (having street names on the back is important) Finding your day’s route or the gelato places on the map not only sparks interest but is a useful skill to hone.

Rome.

(Before you go, watch Roman Holiday with Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck)

Do the Forum with a good guide book: Interesting to walk among the ruins and figure out what was there before. They do sell guide books there that show the ruin and then a plastic overlay of what it looked like in ancient times. The Colosseum: rent an audio guide (available on site) for your teen if they're interested.

Climb to the top of St. Peter’s Basilica dome (not for the claustrophobic).

Villa d’Este at Tivoli -- pack a picnic lunch (catch the bus at P. Mammolo subway stop)

Must see: Pantheon, Trevi Fountain and hang out at the Campo di Fiori.

Walk in the evening from Piazza del Popolo or Campo de Fiori to Spanish Steps, don’t forget to check out Bernini’s Four Rivers fountain.

Get a list of great gelato (ice cream) places and mark them on the map next to the main tourist sites and do lots of gelato tastings. (For example the one on the slow travel italy site, which also lists restaurants: http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/restaurant_list/gelato_grinis a.htm). Hotel Duca d’Alba (www/hotelducadalba.com)is around 180 euros a night for a triple room and is well located.

Pompeii

(read some background material on this before you go as it will be more interesting once you get there, some fiction and nonfiction books geared for teens are available) This is a great place for kids/teens. They hand you a fairly decent guide (that is available in English) when you pay your entrance fee though you might have to remind them to do so. Still, I’d get another guidebook that includes descriptions of some of the sites/buildings. It was great fun to try to find the sites and read a little bit of history on each one. Don’t forget to see the “Beware the Dog” mosaic.

Venice

This city was built for kids/teens—no traffic and lots of souvenir and mask shops.

Take a boat tour down the Grand Canal—cheap on vaporetto #1 and takes under an hour.

Go to the Lido, rent a small cabana w/ an umbrella (not cheap but worth it) and swim.

Feed pigeons at St. Marks Square, go up to the museum in the Basilica and from there outside on the balcony with the 4 horses.

Do the Jewish Ghetto tour.

Visit Burano (lacemaking), visit Murano (glass factory and watch the glass making—might need a reservation).

Give yr teen money to shop for a mask ($25-30) or masquerade ($100 incl cape and traditional 3-cornered hat). There are mask workshops though I’ve never tried one (Mask workshops Ca' Macana - Dorsoduro 3172 - 30123 Tel (+39) 041 2776142 - Fax (+39) 041 5203229 info[at]camacana.com)

Go to one of the traghetto crossings (gondola takes you across the Grand Canal instead of crossing a bridge) for a cheap gondola ride.

Mostly walk and walk and walk--can't go wrong. dorfro


I took my 13 year old (girl) to Italy last summer and I think the suggestions you've received so far are great. I second the advice that you check out slowtrav.org - I planned my trip with this website. My daughter expressed an interest in learning some Italian ahead of time so I found her a great tutor for a few months. Although she turned out to have more interest in the sights than I'd predicted, her attention span was short and her tolerance for seeing a lot in one day was low. She really got into keeping a journal and I think recording the trip heightened her interest. We rented apartments that we found on slowtrav (rather than going to hotels) and let her stay home alone for some of each day. This was a welcome respite for everyone involved. There was a lot of bickering and complaining but within days of our return she had completely idealized the experience and cant wait to go back. anonymous

Bike tour in Italy with baby?

July 2005

We are thinking about a 2 week trip to Italy next year with our son who will be just under 2 then. We would like to bike for part of it. I've looked up some tours, but they are ridicously expensive or don't take kids. Has anyone done this with a baby? Would you recommend a tour or doing it on your own? Any books or places to to recommend? Mama wants La Dolce Vita


Well, I've bike toured in Tuscany before I had my son, who is now 2, and I ride around Oakland and Piedmont with him now in a Burley. I don't think it would be easy to do a bike tour with a 2 year old. I certainly wouldn't spend the money to do an organized trip. You will have to have much more flexibility. I'd recommend staying in one place for a couple days and doing day trips in the area, rather than going from place to place each day. Time your rides for naps, and plan on riding for a couple of hours at most. Ride a lot with him in a trailer now (if you plan on using a trailer). My son likes to have lots of snacks in the pockets, and a few toys here and there. He will do up to two hours on a good day, especially if he naps for most of it.

Italy is super-bike friendly, particularly in the countryside. It does not compare to riding in the US, however the cities can be quite challenging.

I only am familiar with Tuscany, which has super-steep hills all over. There are flatter roads, but they are busier and not as scenic. No matter what, I'd stick to the countryside and try to avoid cities. Use the train system as much as you can to facilitate riding in the country and getting to/from different places.

We did not use tour companies because of the cost. I think we spent $3K for 3 weeks of touring on our own. That would have paid for 1 week of a tour company. The major problem was securing hotel reservations in advance, but that was also a little fun. We had no major problems on the trip and it was one of the best I've ever taken. It would be challenging with a toddler, but I've seen other Euro couples and kids doing bike tours a lot, so it is possible. Phil


I would not go biking in Italy during the summer, not with a baby anyway. Near the coast you would find a weather much like San Diego and inland it is usually ''Central Valley hot''. Weather gets more biker-friendly in September in northern/central Italy, but if you want to bike around Sicily late October/November may be your best bet. Paolo

Amalfi Coast

June 2005

Hello, We're considering a trip to the Amalfi Coast (Italy) this summer with our 2 year old. I would very much like recommendations for specific places to stay (and any sound advice on logistics of getting there). We would like to stay in a house/villa/hotel in town and also within walking distance of a beach. My husband would like to cook while we're there -- so a house or small villa sounds ideal. Also, we need to find a place where our kid can run around or play outside (no places with only a narrow balcony, for example). We'd like to go either in July or August (yes, last minute planning). Any and all suggestions about favorite places, great travel agents are most welcome. Thank you.


We went to Amalfi for a week last October with our then 1.5 year old and stayed in an apartment with a kitchen, which was handy. I found Amalfi itself to be a little too touristy for my tastes and suggest you look around at some of the smaller towns if you want to be able to find non-tourist restaurants, for example. I preferred the small town right next to it, for example, but I can't recall the name (and it's restaurants were all for tourists as well). We got our apartment through Amalfi Life (www.amalfilife.com) and they were fine to work with though not cheap. There is a beach in Amalfi, but don't go there if you're looking for a particularly beachy vacation; it's mostly rocky cliffs. Feel free to contact me for further info. jen
We spent a week driving down the Amalfi Coast last year. It was very romantic for a couple. It was also frightfully expensive!! You can rent a car as we did and drive but I found the driving scary and my boyfriend did all of the driving (I just pressed the pretend brake pedal on my side!). Many of the towns are very steep and so you would need a good stroller for the toddler. Even that wouldn't work everywhere as sometimes you get from level to level on long flights of stone steps. Personally, I would recommend Sicily. It is very pretty and seemed more child friendly to me. Especially the western part was quite a bit like Napa and we staying in a lovely pensione in a tiny village, Scopello, on the edge of a nature reserve. Just lovely. kl
I'm sooooo jealous! The Amalfi coast was my all-time favorite vacation. I still think about MOVING there I loved it soo soo soo much!

I went there BEFORE kids, but the little town is very family- friendly.

My advice is to stay in Atrani, one bend in the road over from Amalfi. You can walk from Atrani to Amalfi. Everything you need to know about Atrani is in this website:

http://www.amalficoastweb.com/atrani/english/virtual_tour.html

Follow the links in this website for lodging ..... it's all owned by the same guy! Get a Family Hostel room, you can have a kitchenette in your room. I found Italy, specifically the coast, to be very affordable. I can go on and on and on and on about it.....email me if you want to hear more about how much I love it! tiffany


August 2003

We will be traveling to Spain and Italy next june with our son who will be 20 months. We are planning on visiting Marbella and Seville in Spain and are then looking at heading to Italy. I've done past traveling in Rome, Venice, Florence but have never done southern Italy. The Amalfi coast looks beautiful on the websites I've visited. I'm looking for any suggestions on places to go in that area, places to stay (ideally a villa or apt) so we can make our own food etc. We figure we'll need to rent a car but would love to hear from others who've traveled to that area and have found fun things to do etc. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. I have checked the website and didn't see anything related. Thanks! Stephanie


We drove a car along the Amalfi Coast, and LOVED it! To avoid tourists in highly publicized costal towns such as Positano, and for the most amazing views in the world, stay in Ravello, high above the coast, but a gorgeous half hour walk (with baby on backpack, might take you an hour). (You can also drive.) A few hotels, possibly some residences to rent, restaurants, lovely strolls, and a serene attitude await you in Ravello. an Italy lover

Agri Tourismo near Sienna, Italy

December 2002

A few years ago (Spring 2001) there were some recommendations posted for places to stay in Tuscany. They were billed as ''agri tourismo'' - or rural/farms that had been converted to B&B type places. I cannot find them in the archives, but as we are preparing for a trip to Italy this summer, I would really like to have any recommendations for such places (we will be three adults a 3 year old and a baby). We would like to be fairly close to Sienna. Thanks! Caroline


I can't recommend a specific agritourismo near Sienna, but when we went to Tuscany, we used a book called ''Walking and Eating in Tuscany and Umbria'' and it was the best guidebook we've ever used. Lots of agritourismos recommended, with great walks and GREAT food. Debbie
In 1999 we had a wonderful vacation at an agriturismo site called Il Poggio. This was pre-baby, but I would love to return to this region with our daughter someday. This is a rural site; condo-type building around a courtyard. We stayed in a spacious one-bedroom unit with a kitchen. There is a fabulous restaurant on-site. It's right outside a very small village, San Casciano dei Bagni. It's in the Siena area. Contact info: Il Poggio Celle sul Rigo 53040, S.Casciano dei Bagni (SI). Tel. 0578/53748, 0578/53741. Fax. 0578/53587. Also check out http://www.sienagriturismo.net. Have a wonderful trip! Kristin
Two years ago we stayed in an old farm which has been renovated in a hotel. They serve breakfast and a light lunch near the pool. The name is Hotel Pescille and it is located in San Gimignano at approx. 20 km from Siena. The views from the hotel are beautiful and you can see the towers of San Gimignano in the distance. The hotel has a rustic atmosphere but it has all the modern amenities. Have a look at the web site http://www.pescille.it and click on Hotel Pescille. Alessandra
I would recommend Castello di Tornano (http://www.castelloditornano.it) outside of the village of Gaioli in Chianti. The rooms in the tower are expensive but the weekly rates for the apartments were reasonable. Four years ago our family of four rented a two bedroom apartment with a kitchen for a week. We shopped every day in the village of Gaioli and prepared simple meals. Very friendly owners, nice dog, family friendly grounds and a refreshing pool which was built in part of the original moat. This was a good base for exploring Tuscany. It is located at the end of a dirt road way up on a hill away from traffic. A very good place to slow down and enjoy your family. Nancy

Hotel in Florence

2001

We stayed here. It's quite nice and central (a few blocks from the Duomo). I think it was more in the $150 a night range, though.

Name : Hotel Casci
Address : Via Cavour 13
50129 Firenze
Email : casci@italyhotel.com
Fax n. : 055-2396461
Phone n. : 055-211686
We researched and booked our Italy hotels through the Internet using these two sites:
  • http://www2.italy-hotel.com/
  • http://www.travel-italy.com It's really easy to make reservations this way, and you can also look at pictures of the rooms, etc. Dana
    We were quite pleased with our stay at this hotel. It was listed in several guide books as well as this online reference (great for hotels throughout Italy): http://www.italyhotel.com
    Hotel Cimabue - Via B. Lupi, 7, Firenze
    Email: cimabue@italyhotel.com
    WWW: http://www.italyhotel.com/firenze/cimabue/
    Fax n.: 055-475601
    Phone n.: 055-471989
    

    Hotel Porto Rosso...simply wonderful, like going back in time. I have no idea of the price. The rooms are small but it is the best! Poregan1
    We liked our stay at the villa carlotta.which is near the Boboli gardens, so not in the center of the city but easy and pleasant walk to all the sites. It's a modernized 19th century palazzo so sound travels...but we had no problems. A 15-20min bus/taxi ride away from town we stayed at pensione bencista in Fiesole which we loved. Both are decribed in the book Access Florence and Venice. O.
    We made a three-month trip to Italy with our 18-month old several years ago, and are now getting ready for a summer trip back with TWO little girls, 4 and 6. And it has been and will be a wonderful experience, so don't have any doubts about the wisdom of your plan! We stayed in Fiesole, a short bus ride outside Florence. There are a number of pensiones in the village, and in October, you should have no trouble finding a reasonable and attractive place,even without reservations. If you plan to stay a week or more, and would like to nail down an apartment or villa ahead of time, try looking through www.vrbo.com, a site that lists Villas for Rent By Owner; lots of nice places, at prices that can make the trip affordable. Buon viaggio! Steven
    My husband and I were in Cinque Terre (which includes Vernazza) about 3 years ago, before the birth of our daughter. I can't tell you enough how much we enjoyed that area. In fact we recently we're planning to head back there with our 2 year old, but cancelled only because we didn't want to make the transatlantic trip with a restless 2 year old. Anyway, Cinque Terre is fantastic. It's so beautiful, and the food! The food is out of this world! We stayed in an apartment in Vernazza that cost us about $60/night. Monterosso (which is the town furthest north in Cinque Terre) has more hotels and may be a better place to stay with a youngster as there's a nice beach--something the other four towns lack. A friend of mine recently returned from a trip to Italy and had nothing but good things to say about Sestri Levante (about 45 minutes by train north of Monterosso). Santa Margarita Ligure (just south of Portofino) is also very cute and has a nice beach. I can't say much about driving times, as we only traveled by train when we were there. The train is an excellent mode of transportation for the coastal towns in Liguria as car access can be difficult--I don't think you can even drive into Vernazza (Vernazza is very small). If you want, I can try to find the name of the person we rented the apartment from. Just email me if you want it or want to ask me any more questions about the area. Ciao!--Karyn
    Nov 2001

    My husband and I have taken several medium-term trips to visit Florence over the last 5 years (from 2 weeks to 2 months) and have had to deal with finding an appropriate place to stay. This time we were especially concerned, since we were traveling with our 2-year old. We had such a wonderful experience that I wanted to share it. The agency is called YAIF (Your Agency in Florence); the person we dealt with is Luca. It is a small operation. Luca has a good number of VERY reasonably-priced apartments, is very responsive on email, accepts credit cards (so all transactions can be done on the web), and provided excellent service once we were in Florence (including a cell phone, free of rental charge). The website, www.yaif.it, has lots of information and photos about the apartments that are offered. If anyone would like more information about our experience, feel free to contact me. Miriam


    Tuscany

    August 2002

    We are looking to rent an apartment, house or villa in or around Montalcino, Italy in Southern Tuscany for 1 month next summer. Approximately mid-June to mid-July. We will need 2-3 bedrooms, a kitchen, air conditioning and a place safe for a 1-year old. Other amenities would be nice, but those are our basic requirements. Has anyone stayed at or heard of such a place? We are just beginning our search. Please contact: Lisa


    I rented a villa last fall through the following website: http://www.knowital.com/ You deal directly with the owners/managers of the property rather than going through an agency. I was really happy with our rental -- and the prices were great. We paid about $1100 for a 4 bedroom/3 bathroom villa in Tuscany with a swimming pool for 1 week in October (tail end of high season).

    There are a number of rental agencies with good websites. But you'll see that their prices are about double what I paid. Here a few that I bookmarked:

    http://www.theparkercompany.com/
    http://www.roadtoitaly.com/villas_and_castles/villas_castles.htm
    http://www.italian-villas.com/
    
    Have a great time. Hae Yuon
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