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I want to plant a lemon tree. That's all I know. We have a sunny spot. I want a tree, but a guarantee that it won't get too big (2nd story is too big). No invasive roots (there's sidewalks not too far away).
Any advice about lemon trees? Which type is easy and fruitful? Are meyer lemons flavorless when home-grown? Should I get a miniature (my inclination is for a regular-sized one, but do some varieties grow too big)?
One of the possible locations has water pipes buried below. If necessary, there's a second spot without that problem.
I am so jealous of everyone with messages about too many lemons! Oooh, and where to buy? Can I plant it now, or is there an optimal time of year? Any special care tips? thank you, BPN community anne
We are planting 2 new trees in our relatively small backyard as 2 diseased trees are being removed (a pittosporum and a stone pine). Our house is north facing and in the South Bay. Does anyone have recommendations of 2 different trees that we could plant? We are looking for trees that are evergreen to provide privacy/screening. We'd also like the trees to not grow too big as they would be under and close to the PG&E power lines. Are there trees that are evergreen that also have lovely seasonal blossoms? That would be great. Any suggestions are appreciated. Tree Lover
I'd like to plant an avocado tree and have heard there are quick-fruiting (two years) trees. Does anyone know a good place to buy avocado trees, either online or at a store locally? I like Trees of Antiquity (online) for other fruits but they don't have avocado. tree fan
We planted an Olive tree in our backyard 2 years ago but now think it would look better in a different location. Does anyone know if it's easy to move an olive tree or how to do it? I've looked at various websites but they all refer to old (100 yrs.,etc.) Olive trees and the need to hire a professional. The tree originally cost us less than $100 but we would hate to kill it by moving it since it is one of the few trees we have. Any advice would be appreciated. Lori
Look to see if it is dormant. No flowering, fruiting or new growth should be occuring.
Measure the caliper (diameter) of the trunk at the ground. For every one inch caliper, dig a ball one foot in diameter. You can make this a little larger if you like.
Replant immediately in new location, making sure to set the top of the root ball slightly high relative to the existing ground. Your hole should be at least 6 inches in radius larger than the ball. Ray
We have a rather tall and very healthy-looking redwood tree in our neighborhood and the topic came up several times among the residents of how to measure its height. I suggested using el-hi math (measure dist to base, and angle to top), but the idea didn't take with the group at large. Anyone been in a similar situation -- did you hire someone to do this? Maybe you used a special tool? Nel
Another way, which might sit better with your non-mathematical more visual neighbors, is to use proportional triangles. Imagine a small triangle near the corner you are using for your angle. Measure the base and height of your small triangle and the base of the large triangle. The height will be proportional (H/B=h/b).
Of course both ways assume a 90 degree angle from the tree to the base line. Both will be quite accurate if you get a transit from the tool lending library to help. Andus
Looking for recommendations for fruit trees. We know we need to get dwarf varieties. We live in the Berkeley Hills and have a Meyer Lemon that does well. I'd love to have a cherry tree. Can anyone recommend one suitable to my area? Can anyone recommend any others? Also, where is the best place to buy? Thank you in advance.
Our neighborhood in N. Berkeley is in the process of using the tree planting program to replace several trees lost in the 80's drought. If you are a Berkeley resident who took advantage of this program, I would be interested to learn which tree species you chose and the plusus and minuese of that choice. Would you choose the same species again? If not, why not? There are so many to chose from, and although I have gotten the list of trees as well as read up on them, it is difficult to decide what will work best. I would welcome any feedback! sarah
I've seen the archives about people who will trim or move your trees, but I'm looking for someone who can tell me if my tree is sick. I'm not sure if those are the same people or not. The tree next to the street in front of my house in North Oakland drips this stuff off it that gets on your car if you park under it. And now the tree has black spots on its leaves and what look like white spots on its branches. I need someone to tell me if there is something wrong with the tree, and if so, what to do about it and if I need to get it trimmed or doctored
What's Wrong With My Tree?
As an arborist, I think you can take care of aphids by yourself. First, if the tree is in a bad location or is getting too much/little water, light or fertilizer (most often too much fertilizer), correct this problem first. Mulch under the dripline if that's not already done. Second, get a strong pressure nozzle for your hose and knock off as many aphids as you can. They won't climb up again. If there are ants managing the aphid colony then put tanglefoot or another sticky substance around the base of tree and check every few days to make sure they haven't bridged it. If none of this works after a week or so, my last resort is to get neem spray, and while using COMPLETE PROTECTION (eyes, mouth, skin) apply this to the affected parts of the tree. Never taken me more than two applications to do them in. Neem is an organic, but obviously still potent enough to do the job, so treat it like any chemical. You can get it at Berkeley Hort. It's used in toothpaste as an antimicrobial, so it's safe in small amounts, but I wouldn't push it. And of course, this is a general recommendation, as I haven't seen the tree. Good Luck! molly
Does anyone know where I can buy a green fig tree? (We don't like the purple ones as much.) Thanks! Figless-on-CurtisSt
We have a big backyard and there are tons of elm trees
sprouting up all over it and there is one big old stump. Is
there any non-toxic way to get the elm to stop sprouting up and
trying to create an elm forest in our backyard?
working like heck in the backyard
We are having a problem with our birch trees shedding small, brown, paper-like seeds EVERYWHERE. These little things are invading our house. We recently had work done to our home and I am wondering if there was damage to the trees during this process as I don't remember this ever being a problem prior to the work. I am not sure exactly what type of birch trees they are and have looked on the internet but didn't find an absolute answer. Any information would be greatly appreciated. I am absolutely fed up with having these things take over the exterior and interior of our home. looking for a solution!
By next year's 'seeding season' you should have some evidence as to whether it is either dying or recovering by whether the heavy production is still occuring.
This is an educated guess from a horticulturist! Get an opinion from a licensed and experienced arborist as to the tree's health. I would recommend calling Brende and Lamb for this sort of thing (510-486-8733). They are good at evaluation whereas many tree companies are really only good for basic pruning and removal. Unless you want to just go ahead and take it out? There are tree companies for this purpose in the archives. Cecelia
We received a flyer in the mail from Gring Pest Control asking if we wanted our Oak Tree sprayed to prevent sudden oak death from ''Spring Oak Catepillars.'' We're wondering if anyone has any experience dealing with Gring and if they do this Oak spraying on a yearly basis. Any advice is helpful, as we have a large oak in our backyard that we'd love to keep, but don't know anything about this particular service. Thank you
First off, there are many different Oak species and only some have gotten Sudden Oak Death (the Tanbark Oak), -and- this disease isn't a problem in the east bay (yet).
You don't need to spray your tree if it isn't sick, and the one and only spray that has been approved in treating sudden oak death isn't the one that this company sprays. Your best bet is to call the Alameda County Master Gardener volunteers for more information! 510-670-2200
The most important thing is that there is no reason to spray and treat a healthy tree. Especially with a chemical that is not approved by the International Society of Arborists (ISA). - Candace
Oak Moths cause damage to Oak leaves for a fairly brief period in the Spring when the larvae (caterpillars) are voraciously feeding (the adult moths do not cause any damage). If less than about 1/4 of the leaves are affected and the tree is otherwise in good health, don't worry about it- the tree can handle that. But if the damage is extensive, &/or the tree is not in great shape to begin with, action is recommended. (If the tree's not in great shape, get a consultation from an experienced certified arborist to determine the larger problem).
There is a very effective biological control for Oak Moth larvae called BT- lethal for them, innocuous to us and other critters. But it is only effective if it is sprayed on the larvae when they are actively feeding, so you must watch your tree closely for their appearance, and then spray right away. A spray too early or too late does no good.
I use Vern McQueen for landscape spraying, 841-2782. He has a Pest Control License, is reasonable, and is a very nice fellow. Cecelia
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